Discovering the Val Mode Vintage Label: A 1970s Gem Worth Keeping
I found my first Val Mode piece at a church rummage sale in Kingston, New York, buried between a table of Pyrex and a box of mismatched sheets. It was a polyester crepe dress in the color of dried blood—deep rust with a subtle geometric print that caught the light differently depending on the angle. The tag read "Val Mode" in a simple sans-serif type, and underneath, in smaller letters, "New York." I paid three dollars and walked out feeling like I'd stolen something.
That dress sent me down a rabbit hole. Who made Val Mode? Where did the label come from? Why had I never heard of it before? Over the next few months, I bought a handful more pieces—a shirtwaist dress with buttons up the front, a pair of wide-leg trousers with a sash belt, a tunic top in a wild paisley that looked like it had been painted on—and I started talking to other vintage sellers, digging through old trade journals, and piecing together a story.
What I found is that the val mode vintage label is exactly the kind of brand that deserves a resurrection—not because it was famous, but because it was ordinary in the best way. It represents the mass-market fashion of the 1970s that actual women wore: no designer hype, no runway shows, just well-made garments that moved with the body and held up through decades of wear.
The History of the Val Mode Vintage Label
Val Mode was a New York-based women's clothing brand that operated primarily in the 1970s, though some pieces date into the early 1980s. The name itself is a play on words—"val" suggesting value, "mode" meaning fashion in French. It was produced by a company called Styl-O-Knit, which had been around since the 1940s making affordable women's sportswear and knitwear. By the 1970s, Styl-O-Knit launched the Val Mode label to compete in the burgeoning market for what we'd now call "bridge fashion"—clothes that were stylish but not designer-priced.
The val mode vintage label specialized in polyester and polyester-blend fabrics, but not the stiff, plastic-y kind that gives 70s a bad name. The material was often a crepe or a doubleknit that draped beautifully and traveled well. Many pieces featured details like contrast stitching, decorative topstitching, or unusual button closures. The prints were distinctly of their era: geometric patterns, abstract florals, the occasional Paisley or batik-inspired motif. The color palette leaned toward earthy tones—burnt orange, mustard, olive, rust—with occasional pops of bright coral or teal.
One of the things that makes the val mode vintage label so compelling to collectors today is that it wasn't high-end. These were everyday clothes for women who worked in offices, raised children, cooked dinner, and went out on Saturday nights. The garments were designed to be comfortable and easy to care for—machine washable, wrinkle-resistant, and affordable. That democratization of style is something we've largely lost today, and finding a piece of it feels like holding a tangible piece of social history.
How to Identify Authentic Val Mode Pieces
Identifying a genuine Val Mode garment is relatively straightforward once you know what to look for. The label itself is the biggest giveaway. Most pieces feature a black, white, or beige woven tag that says "Val Mode" in capital letters, followed by "New York" in a smaller font. Sometimes the tag also says "Styled by Styl-O-Knit" or just "Val Mode." The care labels inside are typically from the 1970s, with all-caps instructions like "MACHINE WASH WARM, TUMBLE DRY LOW." The fabric content is almost always stated, often 100% polyester or a polyester-rayon blend.
The construction quality varies. Some pieces are beautifully finished with French seams or bound buttonholes, while others are more basic. But even the simpler ones have a sturdiness that cheap fast fashion lacks. The zippers are often metal YKK or Talon, and the buttons are usually plastic or self-covered. Look for sizing that follows 1970s standards—a size 10 back then is roughly a modern size 4 to 6, so don't be alarmed if the tag says a larger number than you'd expect.
Why Collectors Seek Out the Val Mode Vintage Label
There are a few reasons why seasoned vintage hunters keep an eye out for the val mode vintage label. First, the prints are genuinely wild. Unlike some 70s brands that played it safe with solids or tiny florals, Val Mode embraced the decade's love of graphic abstraction. I have a Val Mode tunic in a pattern that looks like a satellite image of a river delta—all branching lines in brown and cream—that makes me feel like I'm wearing a piece of map. The prints are bold but not clownish, and they're fun to style with modern basics.
Second, the fit is forgiving. The crepe fabric drapes rather than clings, which means a Val Mode dress can flatter a wide range of body types without tailoring. The shirtwaist dress I found has a tie waist, so you can cinch it or leave it loose. The trousers have a generous leg that works for both petites and tall women. There's a sense that the designers understood real female bodies, not just mannequins.
Third, the val mode vintage label is still relatively underrecognized. You can often find pieces at flea markets and estate sales for under $20, whereas more famous 1970s brands like Jantzen or Catalina have been picked over by resellers and priced accordingly. For collectors who love the unsung heroes of fashion history, Val Mode is a goldmine.
Styling Tips for Val Mode Garments
I style my Val Mode pieces the same way I style most of my vintage finds: as anchors in a modern outfit. A Val Mode polyester crepe dress looks incredible with a black leather belt—preferably a Western-style one from the 80s or early 90s—and a pair of chunky loafers or ankle boots. The contrast between the soft, drapey dress and the sharp accessories keeps it from looking like a costume.
For a Val Mode tunic or blouse, try it tucked into high-waisted jeans (I love vintage Levi's 501s for this) with the top button undone and a simple gold chain. The 70s prints work especially well with solids, so keep the bottom half clean. You can also layer a Val Mode top under a cropped cardigan or denim jacket for a more casual look. The key is to let the vintage piece speak without surrounding it with other loud items.
Val Mode trousers work surprisingly well in a modern office setting. Pair them with a plain white cotton blouse and a navy blazer, and you've got a look that's retro but completely appropriate for a creative workplace. Add leather sandals or mules and a structured bag, and you're done.
Where to Find Val Mode Today
Because the val mode vintage label is not a household name, you won't find dedicated eBay sections or Etsy shops. You have to hunt for it. I've had the best luck at church and charity rummage sales in smaller towns, where people clean out the closets of older relatives and price everything at a dollar. Estate sales in the Northeast and Midwest are also promising, especially sales targeting homes from the 1970s. At flea markets, look for sellers who specialize in vintage clothing but don't know the label—they'll often price Val Mode pieces lower than better-known brands.
Online, search for "Val Mode vintage" on Etsy, eBay, and Depop. Be patient; pieces pop up irregularly. Also search for common misspellings or variations like "Val Mode New York" or just "Val Mode." If you find one in good condition, grab it—the supply isn't endless, and as more people discover this label, prices will climb.
For me, the val mode vintage label is everything I love about vintage fashion. It's not about hype or status or fitting a trend. It's about the pure pleasure of wearing something that was made with care, for a real woman, decades ago. The best clothes don't just age. They remember.
